Herzegovina feels like a breath of fresh air—literally. With its beautiful rivers, waterfalls, hills, and historic towns, this southern gem of Bosnia and Herzegovina is a feast for the senses. While Sarajevo captivated us with its rich history, Herzegovina amazed us with its unspoiled natural beauty.
Kicking off the day early, we hopped into a comfortable eight-seater car arranged by Holiday Bosnia and started our journey from Sarajevo. Our soft-spoken Bosnian guide Vedad suggested we skip the highway and take the scenic route along the Neretva River—and wow, what an inspired choice!
The Neretva River’s greenish-blue hue looked like something out of a painting. With dramatic cliffs and lush greenery framing the river, the serene landscape felt almost magical. We couldn’t resist making a few impromptu stops just to soak it all in. Particularly memorable was our stop at Bagrem Restoran, a parking lot overlooking the river. A short walk from there brought us right up to the water’s edge. While we didn’t have time for a boat ride (offered at the restaurant), just sitting by the river was enough to appreciate its beauty. Although I still regret not taking the boat ride and would highly recommend it.
As we continued forth, our guide introduced us to the “Valley of Lambs,” a stretch of the Neretva Gorge teeming with roadside restaurants featuring lamb spit-roasting outside. The sight and smell of the golden-brown lamb turning over open flames immediately made us hungry and we went with Vedad’s recommendation of the Lamb House Restaurant.
And I am certain that even if it was not your favored choice of meat, the aroma of roasting lamb would certainly test your taste buds. You simply cannot miss this delicacy while visiting Bosnia.
We were on the road again and after a few hours arrived in Mostar. As we drove through a tunnel Vedad warned us that the moment we etered the outskirts of Mostar we would feel a change in weather. Indeed the coming days in Mostar were colder. Known for its 16th-century Stari Most (Old Bridge), Mostar is as charming as it is historic. The bridge, a symbol of unity, connects the city across the Neretva River and is one of the most photographed landmarks in the region.
When we got there, the old town was buzzing with tourists, but its charm shone through the crowds. A stop at Urban Taste of Orient, a café overlooking the bridge, gave us the perfect excuse to sit back and enjoy Bosnian coffee while soaking up the view. One of our travel group members later mentioned that she also had a breakfast there and quiet liked it.
Wandering through Mostar’s cobbled streets felt like stepping back in time with its Ottoman-era architecture and vibrant market stalls.
One standout experience was visiting the Koski Mehmed Pasha Mosque, which offered phenomenal view of the town and Stari Most from its minaret. The climb was steep but absolutely worth every step—it felt like seeing Mostar through the eyes of history.
We also caught sight of the famous bridge divers leaping from Stari Most’s 24-meter height into the icy river below. It’s part-spectacle, part tradition, and seeing it up close was exhilarating.
For a dose of adrenaline, we headed up to Skybridge Mostar just outside the city. The bridge is not far from a car park and is easily accessible. If you have family members with mobility issue they can enjoy the view from the restaurant just before the bridge. The views from the suspension bridge were breathtaking, but for the adventurous souls the real highlight was the zipline. It was my first ziplining experience and although I was thrilled but admittedly a bit nervous too prepared to take off. Zipping across the valley at high speed was both terrifying and exciting—and even our guide, Vedad, gave it a go!.
After a short drive from Mostar, we arrived at Blagaj Tekke, a 450-year-old Dervish monastery nestled beside the Buna River. The setting is surreal—a whitewashed monastery perched at the base of a towering cliff, with crystal-clear waters flowing past.
This spot is as serene as it is beautiful. We enjoyed lunch at a cozy riverside restaurant with the sound of the rushing river in the background. Touring the monastery offered a deeper understanding of its history as a spiritual retreat. It’s an incredibly peaceful place that stays with one long after the visit.
Our trip wouldn’t have been complete without a visit to Kravica Waterfalls, about an hour from Mostar. These cascading falls plunge into a turquoise pool surrounded by lush greenery—an absolute must-see.
Swimming is allowed from May to October, and on a hot summer day, the refreshing water is a pure bliss. Facilities near the falls (like restaurants and restrooms) were convenient, and the 10-minute walk down to the base reveal one of the most stunning natural spots I’ve seen.
Oddly enough, the most memorable part of the trip wasn’t a tourist hotspot—it was the night spent in a peaceful Bosnian village. Our host, a kind local woman, welcomed us to her cozy four-bedroom home surrounded by blooming flowers and fields. Her hospitality was heartwarming, and with her daughter helping translate, we shared stories and laughter.
Our evening included a visit to the village mosque for Isha prayer, where we were warmly greeted by the imam and locals. The mosque, perched on a hill, was a serene place to reflect. After the prayer, the imam shared fascinating stories about their tight-knit community. It was an experience that offered a deeper connection to the culture of Herzegovina
Before heading home, we ventured out for a quick trip to Dubrovnik, also known as the “Pearl of the Adriatic”. Initially it was not part of our plan to visit there but when Veded mentioned that it was only 140km from Mostar we decided to do a day trip. Not all vehicles were allowed to cross the border, so Vedad arranged a different car for the trip.
We left in the morning and on our way stopped at Stolac, which is a town known for Ottoman era architecture. It is home to some of the most significant medieval stećci tombstones that are part of UNESCO’s world heritage sites dating back to 14th and 15th centuries. It is often referred to as a “museum under the open sky” because of its blend of Roman, medieval, Ottoman, and Austro-Hungarian influences.
If venturing into Dubrovnik, Stolac is the last place before entering Croatia where one can find Halal restaurant, so we stopped and bought some shawarmas from a local restaurant. Croatian border is around 40 minutes drive from here.
As we approached the Old City we encountered parking issues. Close to the city walls the parking could be expensive and not easily available unless you came early in morning. So be prepared to do some walking.
The Old City of Dubrovnik felt like stepping into a movie set! The medieval stone buildings, narrow streets, and stunning architecture seemed straight out of a storybook. Nevertheless this place might not be for those averted to crowded places because being a popular tourist destination it could get overcrowded at times. We escaped the crowd and found a masjid in old city where we prayed and got refreshed.
The highlight of the day was our boating trip in the sparkling Adriatic Sea that was a mesmerising shade of blue-green turning into deep sapphire as it stretched towards the horizon while city’s terracotta rooftops forming a stunning backdrop. The boat ride also allowed us some respite from the bustling streets.
Then for a panoramic view of the city and the Adriatic you can take the cable car to the top of Mount Srđ at 1,352 feet above sea level. It is best experienced early in the day or during off-season.
Finally, it was time to return to our base in Bosnia. The drive along the Adriatic sea was breathtaking with dramatic cliffs rising from azure blue sea. Adding to this beauty were the villages whizzing past with a glimpse of small islands off the coast. As we crossed into Bosnia, we stopped at Neum to watch the beautiful sunset. Neum is Bosnia and Herzegovina’s only coastal town and is a perfect place to take a short break, enjoy the view of the sea, and grab a meal.
From the pristine waters of the Neretva River to the cascading falls of Kravica and the historic charm of Mostar, Herzegovina offered an amazing travel experience. It’s a region of breathtaking scenery, rich traditions, and warm hospitality that lingers in your memory long after you leave.
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