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Smile by the Fountain: Sarajevo’s Eternal Call

By:Fazal Qureshi
My visit to Sarajevo was more than just a trip—it felt like stepping into a story filled with timeless charm, heartfelt connections, and the kind of beauty that stays with you long after you leave.
“Have you tried drinking from the fountain?” The old lady’s voice was warm, her smile gentle yet mischievous. I hesitated, standing in front of the Gazi Husrev-beg Mosque’s fountain in the heart of Sarajevo. I was about to leave due to queue in front of me when her words lingered in the air. “Drink,” she said, “and you will return to Sarajevo again.”
I am not superstitious at all, but I waited for my turn, cupped my hands, the cold water refreshing against my palms, and drank.

The City That Whispers Stories

Sarajevo greets you like an old friend—its cobblestone streets murmuring tales of resilience and beauty. As I wandered through Baščaršija with my family, the city’s historic bazaar, the fusion of Ottoman charm and Austro-Hungarian grandeur enveloped us. The minarets pierced the skyline, and the scent of freshly baked somun bread mixed with the aroma of Bosnian coffee takes you to a different world. Over two days, I discovered the magic of Sarajevo—a city where East meets West and where stories of hope and resilience shine through its turbulent past

First Impressions

There is a direct flight from Luton to Sarajevo by Wizz Air, one of the most economical and convenient options for travelers from the UK. In just a few hours, we landed at Sarajevo International Airport, where a driver arranged by Holiday Bosnia was waiting to greet us. From the moment we stepped outside, the fresh mountain air and the warmth of the people made us feel welcome.

Our accommodation, Hotel President, was ideally located right next to the historic old town, Bascarsija. The hotel’s location couldn’t have been better—just a stone’s throw from iconic landmarks like the Emperor’s Mosque and Latin Bridge. From our room, the view of the Emperors mosque’s minaret against the backdrop of Sarajevo’s green hills was breathtaking. It was the perfect mix of history and tranquility.

Exploring Bascarsija: Sarajevo’s Vibrant Heart and a Living Museuem

As soon as we checked into our hotel, we were eager to explore the city that so many describe as a meeting point of history and culture. Our guide, Kristjan’s passion for Sarajevo was infectious, so we set off for an afternoon tour of the old city known locally as Bascarsija.

The square buzzed with energy, and it was hard not to feel like I’d stepped back in time, surrounded by Ottoman-era architecture and cobblestone streets. It was the perfect introduction to Baščaršija, the soul of Sarajevo—a vibrant old town that dates back to the 15th century. The narrow streets were alive with the chatter of shopkeepers, the aroma of grilled ćevapi, and the hum of locals enjoying their day.

The first stop was Sebilj, an Ottoman-style wooden fountain standing gracefully in Baščaršija Square. The sight was enchanting—pigeons fluttered around, locals and tourists mingled, and the soft sound of water trickling created a serene backdrop.

The Story of Copper Street

Kristijan then led us into Kazandžiluk, the famous Copper Street. As soon as we entered, the rhythmic sound of hammers striking copper filled the air. We stopped at a family-run shop where the shopkeeper greeted us warmly in fluent English. He beamed with pride as he shared the history of his business. “My great-grandfather started this shop over a century ago,” he said. “We’ve been coppersmiths for four generations.”

He motioned toward a small display near the back. “During the war,” he explained, “we collected bombshells and bullets and turned them into art. It was our way of finding beauty in destruction, of preserving our craft even in the hardest times.”

These handcrafted pieces make you admire the resilience and creativity of these artisans who had turned remnants of war into symbols of hope.

The Gazi Husrev-beg Mosque

As the day wound down, we headed to Gazi Husrev Bey Mosque, one of the most significant landmarks in Sarajevo. Built in the 16th century, this mosque is a masterpiece of Ottoman architecture. Its elegant domes, intricately carved wooden details, and serene courtyard make it a must-visit. Kristijan pointed out the clock tower nearby, which is famous for keeping lunar time to align with Islamic prayer schedules. Its uniqueness struck me—it was a rare example of tradition woven seamlessly into modern life

By that time, it was sunset, time for Maghrib prayer. Sitting in the courtyard as the sun set, surrounded by the buzz of life outside the mosque walls, was a surreal experience. The call to prayer echoed beautifully through the air, and the courtyard, though busy, had an incredible sense of peace. The prayer itself was moving, with the imam’s beautiful recitation leaving a lasting impression.

A Taste of Sarajevo’s Flavors

Bosnian food is a true delight, and Sarajevo offers some of the best. As we wandered past the mosque, our guide mentioned a hidden gem nearby. He led us to a small bakery that had been operating for decades. Pekara Imaret, historic bakery built in the 16th century by Gazi Husrev Bey himself. The entrance was discreet, almost concealed within an alleyway. “You’ll have to trust me on this,” he said with a grin.We stepped into the alley, passed through a quiet courtyard, and found ourselves inside a cozy bakery filled with the smell of freshly baked bread. It was a local favorite, tucked away from the main streets but well-known for its delicious somun bread. Warm, soft, and slightly chewy, it was a taste of Sarajevo’s authentic flavors.

For dinner, we visited Buregdžinica Bosna, a small eatery famed for its burek. This flaky pastry, filled with meat, cheese, or spinach, is a local favorite and a must-try. Another highlight was Bosnian coffee is also an experience in itself. Served in a small, traditional džezva (coffee pot), it’s strong, rich, and accompanied by a piece of Turkish delight. Sipping coffee at a café in Bascarsija, watching the world go by, was the perfect way to end the day.

History and Resilience

The next morning, we set out to explore Sarajevo’s deeper layers. Our first stop was the Latin Bridge, a small yet historically significant site. This is where Archduke Franz Ferdinand , who was next in line for throne, and his wife were assassinated in 1914, an event that triggered World War I. If I remember correctly the assassin was only19 years old.

Next, we visited the Tunnel of Hope, a highlight of the trip. During the siege of Sarajevo in the 1990s, this 800-meter tunnel was the city’s lifeline, connecting it to the outside world. Crawling through the preserved portion of the tunnel and hearing stories of survival was humbling. It’s a stark reminder of Sarajevo’s resilience and the strength of its people during one of the darkest chapters in its history.

For a change of pace, we rode the cable car to Mount Trebevic, which offers panoramic views of Sarajevo. The ride itself was smooth and scenic, but the real treat was at the top. The fresh mountain air, combined with sweeping views of the city below, made it the perfect spot for reflection.

At the summit, Sunnyland Park provided some family-friendly fun. The kids loved the Alpine Roller Coaster, a gravity-powered ride that twists and turns through the hillside. It’s a thrill for all ages and a great way to break up the day with some lighthearted adventure.

Vrelo Bosne

Our final stop was Vrelo Bosne, a stunning nature park at the source of the Bosna River. Just a short drive from Sarajevo, this park feels like a world away from the city.

After arriving at car park  we spotted a line of horse-drawn carriages waiting to take visitors to the park’s entrance. The kids’ eyes lit up at the sight of the horses, and before we knew it, we were climbing aboard one of the carriages. The gentle clip-clop of hooves on the path, framed by towering trees, made the short ride feel special and was a charming start to our visit.

The river’s emerald-green waters were mesmerizing, and the park’s tree-lined paths were perfect for a leisurely stroll. The overall atmosphere was incredibly serene and I will surely recommend to visit.

A Taste of the Gulf in Sarajevo

I had a pleasant surprise when our guide asked us if we would like to have a cup of karak tea.  The idea of sipping Karak tea amidst Sarajevo’s natural beauty sounded too good to resist. He drove us to Dobrinja, part of the Novi Grad municipality, which is not far from the airport. Over the years, it has attracted a diverse community, including individuals from the Gulf Cooperation Council (GCC) countries, who have purchased properties and established a presence in the area. You will find a few restaurants serving middle eastern food here.

Practical Tips for Visiting Sarajevo

  • Best Time to Visit: Summer (May to October) is ideal for enjoying Sarajevo’s outdoor attractions and lush greenery. Winter offers a magical snowy charm, especially for skiers.
  • Accommodations: Try to stay close to old city. For budget travelers, Airbnb options in Sarajevo are plentiful.
  • Getting Around: The old town is best explored on foot. For longer distances, taxis and ride-sharing apps are convenient and affordable.
  • Halal Food: Sarajevo is a Muslim-majority city, so halal food is widely available. Ask locals or guides for the best authentic spots.
  • Must-See Spots:
    • Gazi Husrev Bey Mosque: A spiritual and architectural gem.
  • Baščaršija (Old Bazaar)
    • The historic and cultural heart of Sarajevo.Don’t miss Sebilj Fountain, the symbol of Sarajevo.
    • Tunnel of Hope: A humbling reminder of Sarajevo’s resilience.
    • Mount Trebevic: For panoramic views and a fun family outing.
    • Vrelo Bosne: A peaceful escape into nature, along Bosna River.

Sarajevo is quite under rated European city,  From the lively streets of Bascarsija to the serene courtyards of its mosques, every corner has a story to tell. Its hard not to fall in love with its history, its people, and its undeniable spirit. If you’re looking for a destination that inspires, moves, and captivates, Sarajevo is it.

In front of the Gazi Husrev-beg Mosque’s fountain in the heart of Sarajevo, the old lady’s voice was warm, her smile gentle yet mischievous.

 “Drink,” she said, “and you will return to Sarajevo again.”

I thanked her—for the welcome, the wisdom, the warmth. As I walked away, I knew this wasn’t goodbye.

Fazal Qureshi is a medic who loves exploring diverse cultures. He enjoys sharing insights and experiences to help fellow travellers navigate the world with ease.
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