Perched in a hot air ballon, I felt like I was in an intergalactic ship tentatively surveying a strange alien land below. Wherever I looked intriguing conical rock formations jutted out of the ground, stretching for miles.
In a region of central Anatolia, millions of years ago, three mountains spewed out lava and ash that solidified into soft rock called tuff. Over time, as weather worked its magic, the tuff eroded, transforming into cones, mushrooms, and tent-like formations. somewhere must have thought that this strange land would look even more surreal from high altitude and that’s how the hot air balloons boom must have started, and the activity certainly draws a big crowd.
Our trip was short, but we kept an extra day for the balloon ride in case of cancellations, as the flights are dependent on weather conditions. April to November offers calmer weather, hence fewer chances of cancellation. The balloons take off at dawn. There was excitement as the balloon was being inflated. Among the group, some were jittery as it was their first flight, while a kid, who was riding the balloon as a birthday present, looked the happiest.
As the sun’s rays began to spread, the sky was soon dotted with balloons. While we rode, there was only the soft sound of the wind, occasionall interrupted by the buzzing of the burner heating the air inside the balloon. This serenity was sometimes broken by the pilot’s occasional comments. Indeed, the view from above looked extraterrestrial as we whizzed past the chimneys multiple times. The area with the most chimney formations is called Fairy Chimney Valley, as locals believed that mythical beings lived beneath it.
If natural forces sculpted the land, human hands further shaped it. Over centuries, the inhabitants carved into the soft rock, transforming it into their abode. With their exterior shapes preserved and only the doors and windows hollowed out, these cave houses look like something out of a fairy tale or a Flintstones movie. An area in Cappadocia called Göreme is also known as a cave town. Not only do people still live in these caves, but many have been converted into hotels and spas, offering unique accommodations. There are also more affordable options that replicate the cave ambiance.
And just when we thought we had seen enough wonders, we discovered entire cities deep beneath the earth. One such city in Derinkuyu, a region in Cappadocia, is 18 stories deep, complete with living quarters, stables, ventilation systems, wells, storage rooms, and communal areas. An entire population could take refuge here for days, safe from invading armies. This labyrinthine city features hundreds of hidden entrances, with heavy stone doors that could only be opened from the inside, protecting up to 20,000 people within.
Anatolia, located at the convergence of Asia and Europe, has long been a land of migrations and has witnessed the rise and fall of countless kingdoms.
Anatolia being at the converging point of Asia and Europe has been a land of migrations and shifting empires. Cappodocia spans several provinces in central Anatolia. Its history stretches back to the Paleolithic era. The Hittites ruled the area around 4,000 years ago, boasting a kingdom that rivaled Egypt and Mesopotamia. After its decline, the region came under Persian rule and was later assimilated into the Roman and Byzantine empires. Christianity flourished here, leaving its mark in the form of cave churches and frescoes. The Seljuk Turks took control in the 11th century, and the region eventually became part of the Ottoman Empire. Anatolia, the Asian part of Turkey, accounts for 97% of the country’s landmass.
One can explore the area by taking hiking trails or using the buses that connect different regions. We opted for the bus and explored various areas. The people are incredibly friendly—once, while photographing grapes at a place where molasses was being prepared, a person gifted us an entire bunch.
In Avanos we found several studios and workshops where visitors can try their hand at pottery. The town of Avanos is famous for its pottery, with a rich history dating back to the Hittites. The craft thrives thanks to the Kızılırmak, or Red River, which provides the high-quality red clay essential for their iconic art. Surrounded by nature’s craftsmanship in this land, one feels inspired to try their hand at creating something using the clay from this very earth. Afterward, we savored the traditional pottery kebab, a staple dish where ingredients are sealed inside a clay pot and simmered slowly over open flames, allowing the flavors to meld perfectly. We also witnessed Turkey’s love for cats when, at a restaurant, we shared our table with the owner’s cat.
Surrounded by so much carving and craftsmanship, one might feel inspired to create something with their own hands, using materials drawn from the earth. The craft thrives thanks to the Kızılırmak, or Red River, which provides the high-quality red clay essential for their iconic art. Afterward, one can try the traditional pottery kebab, a staple dish where ingredients are sealed inside a clay pot and simmered slowly over flames or in an oven, allowing the flavors to meld perfectly.There’s some theatrics involved too—the burning-hot jar is brought to your table and cracked open with a small wooden hammer.
Our next stop took on a meditative spin, as we immersed ourselves in =riveting atmosphere of the Sema ceremony by the Whirling Derveshis. They are Sufi mystics from the Mevlevi Order, followers of the poet Rumi. The Sema ceremony is their way of connecting with God. Dressed in long white robes and tall hats, they whirl gracefully to traditional music, their movements symbolizing the planets orbiting the sun and the soul’s journey toward divine love.
The venue for the ceremony was the impressive Saruhan Caravanserai, built in the thirteenth century by the Seljuks. The building captivated me as much as the Sema ceremony itself. Caravanserais were constructed along ancient caravan routes throughout the Muslim world. This one was built in the classical style of its time, featuring a large rectangular courtyard surrounded by a cloister-like arcade adorned with ornate Seljuk-style decorations, including geometric patterns and inscriptions.
Caravanserais were constructed along ancient caravan paths, lining the Silk Road network that stretched extensively from Turkey to China. These structures offered protection against bandits and could house entire caravans. The impressive arched door of the Saruhan, framed with intricate stone carvings, was large enough to allow camels to pass through. A stone building with a rectangular courtyard surrounded with arches that lead to rooms, the caravanserai showcases the distinctive hallmarks of Seljuk architecture.
Andrew Lawler writes in Caravanserai, Traces, Places, Dialogue in the Middle East, “Without such places to rest in relative comfort, Ibn Battuta’s famous twenty-eight-year journey across Africa and Asia might never have taken place. Indeed, it was not until the Islamic era, beginning in the seventh century, that long-distance travel became a matter of at least as much routine as risk.”
He adds , “Essential to this change was the spread of traveler’s lodgings, from Spain to China, which opened the world to innumerable merchants, pilgrims, and those who, like Ibn Battuta, were driven by sheer curiosity.”
Witnessing the traces of millions of years of geological changes and heritage spanning centuries, I felt as though I had traveled through time. Or perhaps, I felt more like Ibn Battuta, driven to distant lands by an insatiable curiosity.
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